If you are looking for a pool cue, this article is right for you.  It might be somewhat confusing when trying to pick the right stick, after all there are different sizes, wood, joints, tips, tip sizes, ferrules, wraps, weight and design.  Well, I can't help you with design decision.  I am a minimalist by nature, so I tend to buy "plain but functional" things.  But as far as other things are concerned, read on for some more info.

Size of a pool cue.

Most pool cues are either 57" or 58" and that is usually enough for an adult.  Come to think about it - you will have an enormous problem locating a stock cue which is longer.  There are extensions available for snooker cue, and most monster 12' table come with a very long stick but normally you should be fine with regular size.  If you are picking up a cue for a child or someone smaller then average adult, it is a good idea to go to your local pool store and try out some shorter cues before you complete your purchase.  Shorter cues are available in 52", 48", 42", 36" and even 24".  Why would anyone make shorter cues if 57" is just fine - well, in ideal world your table stands in a middle of a huge hall without any obstructions what so ever.  In real life however, your pool table is in the basement with a pillar right next to it, not to mention other architectural features.  (I once have assembled a table for one of my customers where the distance between a table and a wall was about 3' - I did tell him that he will have tough time playing the table, but he wanted it anyway)  That is why shorter cues might come handy.  Stick with 57 or 58" stick and you should be fine.

Wood.

Many different materials are used to make cues today, but most common is maple.  Maple is very durable and yet flexible enough to make excellent cue.  You can get ash cue, but from my experience these tend to warp in about a year or two.  There are also variety of artificial materials available - graphite, fiberglass, wood coated with fiberglass, etc.  These are very durable and tend to stay straight for a long time.  In fact it is an excellent idea for someone who just starts with pool.  More experienced players will argue that artificial materials make cue less responsive, but if you need a low maintenance cue - fiberglass or graphite is right for you .  There are some excellent cues in this category - check out Cuetec and Scorpion (John Archer plays with Scorpion and Earl Strickland plays with Cuetec).  I prefer maple, fiberglass / graphite combination feels a bit strange to me.  So for extreme durability - get composite materials, for a traditional feel of play - maple is your friend, if you want something that looks distinguished - try ash.  Now, I know that there are some economy sticks out there which are made out of what they call "Chinese Maple" - I think "Maple" part is overstatement - it's most likely pine or birch or maybe even crashed cardboard, who knows.  Those are never straight and I am not even going to talk about those.

Joint.

There are many different type of joints available today, if we will go in details on let's say aluminum vs brass I would have to type a whole bunch of words that will put you to sleep, so here is the overview of the types of joint:

Wood to wood - greatest cue ball control, softer shot - this is as close to the one piece cue as you can get with two piece stick.  Recommended for those who uses English or at least know what I am talking about when I say English.

Wood to metal - average cue ball control, average shot.  This is a nice combination which will deliver a punishing hit when needed and your cue ball will be obedient enough (providing you know how to work it)

Metal to metal - little cue ball control, maximum force of shot.  This will be good if you really like to set all the balls on the table flying.  Good for breaking and jump shots.  But if you have to have a separate cue for your jump shots or your breaks, you already know everything in this article. 

There are whole bunch of different thread systems on the market as well, in my opinion, it's just a design option which has no practical impact on your game.

Tip.

Tip is one of the most important part of your cue.  It comes in contact with a cue ball and it is important to care for your tip, but let's talk about different kind of tips.  There are some tips that are harder - those last longer, deliver more powerful shots and very difficult to administer any English with.  Softer tips allow for greater English but tend to wear out sooner.  Most cues come with medium softness tips giving you a taste of both ends of the spectrum.  If you don't like the tip you have on your cue, normally any pool hall will have a "tip guy" who can set you up with something different.  We do sell whole bunch of different tips as well as tools to replace your tips at home, but honestly, if you never did this before you will not succeed on the first try.

Tip Size.

Most pool cues come with either 12 1/2 mm or 13 mm tip size.  You can get a cue with either larger or smaller tip, smaller tip gives you better English while larger reduces your English.  It could be a good idea to get 12 1/2 mm if you want to learn the strategy of playing.

Ferrule.

There are tons of different approaches to ferrules and materials for pool cues. (brass, different kinds of plastic, even ivory)  The most important part in my opinion is how much of shaft do you still have inside of that ferrule.  More shaft (some have a thin layer of wood from the shaft coming in contact with tip itself) - better energy transfer, if I remember my science classes correctly.  Keep in mind, with smaller ferrules you have greater possibility of damaging it when playing. 

Wrap.

Most cues today come with Irish Linen wrap on the but of the cue which gives you better grip (not to mention absorbing beer and other liquids from your palm).  There are some composite wraps out there, but honestly I am not a big fan of those.  Leather wraps look nice, but tend to start to peel at the edges after a while.  No wrap - well you are going for a classic approach.

Weight.

As you probably guessed, weight and force of your shots come hand in hand.  My first stick was Cuetec Signature 21 Oz.  I figured I am a big guy so I need a heavier stick.  Well, I was wrong.  Now I play with 19 Oz cue as I realized that 99.99% of your shots will not be a cannon blast but rather a soft touch which will allow you not only to sink an object ball, but also to bring the cue ball to the spot for your next shot.  For a break cue, sure 21 or even 22 Oz is great, but most people who are serious about their game play with something lighter.

I know that it seems that since this article is posted on the site dedicated to selling billiard accessories and such, I should be trying to convince you to spend lots of cash for your cue - this is not my intention at all.  If you are starting out - don't spend more then $150.00 on your cue.  Remember - cue is just a tool, you will not be playing better with a stick that you bought for couple of thousand dollars.  If you want something for less then $60.00 - I am sorry but what you want is crap and most likely you will be upset with the cue and me by association and will never order from this site again.  If you are experienced player - you already know what you like and my advise will seem useless.  I can't really recommend a specific brand or a model, I play with McDermott and I am very happy with it.

I wanted to ask you to give me some feedback on this or any other article that you read here.  Please let me know what did you think.  If you have any ideas on what should I write about, want to share your opinion about this or any other article or have a specific question, please email paul@billiard-place.com

Thanks for reading and happy playing.

Paul.